I have a soft spot for great places. And a decidedly less reasonable weakness for certain desserts. But ordering a cookbook from the United States just to recreate a pie I tasted in Los Angeles? Apparently, that was a small step I was more than happy to take.
The culprit is Key Lime Pie. I discovered it at Café Gratitude in Venice, and let me warn you: this is not the kind of dessert you try absent-mindedly before moving on to something else. This one caught my eye, then won me over with the very first bite. Nine years later, it still holds a special place in my very personal dessert hall of fame.
It all began in 2017, during a four-week stay in Los Angeles. We had rented an adorable villa called The 21 Palm trees, just a few streets away from Abbot Kinney in Venice. Farrell was three and a half, Vadim was five months old, and we were determined to make the most of the city. Between walks, discoveries and favourite spots, we quickly settled into a routine in the neighbourhood. Back then, as I remember it, Gjelina had only recently opened, Rose Cafe was still a reliable favourite before closing its doors, and The Butcher’s Daughter was already one of my go-to places.
But my favourite spot, the one I returned to every two or three days for lunch, was Café Gratitude. I loved the food, its plant-based approach, the atmosphere… And then, of course, there was that famous Key Lime Pie.
Café Gratitude: More Than Just a Pretty Place
The name sets the tone: here, gratitude is more than a feel-good idea displayed on a wall. It is the guiding principle behind a concept that brings together plant-based food, wellbeing and a sense of community. Founded in California in the early 2000s, Café Gratitude champions a different way of eating, with entirely plant-based dishes and particular attention to ingredients, pleasure and human connection.
There is also a little detail I absolutely love, one that feels quintessentially Californian: dishes have names like I Am Grateful, I Am Dazzling or I Am Open-Hearted. In other words, your lunch comes with a positive affirmation on the side. Some might find it a little out there. I find it rather delightful, especially when the food lives up to the promise.
And it did. I tried their salads and other dishes, including the Brussels sprout salad and Eggs Benedict. Everything was vegan and delicious, and this approach to food reflected something I have always cared about: eating for pleasure, while also paying attention to what goes onto my plate and what I give my body.
And then there was their Key Lime Pie.
My Favourite Dessert in the World
There, I said it. I could try to qualify that statement, draw up a list or pretend to maintain a little critical distance, but what would be the point? This pie had an extraordinary effect on me. I fell in love with it, and that first taste has stood the test of time, distance and every other sweet treat I have tried since.
Its plant-based version had everything I could wish for: a pecan and date crust, and a creamy filling made with avocado, coconut and lime. Yes, avocado in a dessert. And it is delicious.
I have always had a weakness for anything made with lime, but this pie offers much more than a simple citrus tang. Its texture, sweetness and balance make it utterly irresistible. Proof that a plant-based dessert can be wonderfully indulgent without trying to imitate its traditional counterpart at all costs.
A Family Affair
I grew up with a father who cooked healthily, using fresh produce bought at the market. No tinned food or frozen meals ever made it into our home. Throughout my childhood, I ate organic, locally sourced food, much of it from my own family’s produce. Habits like that leave their mark.
That culture of home cooking, good ingredients and respect for what we eat has stayed with me. I love the idea that food and drinks can nourish the body without sacrificing pleasure along the way.
It is also something I appreciate about certain places I discover while travelling. I have already written about Honest Greens, in Barcelona, in another Maison Chill article. These are the kinds of casual dining spots where you can eat well every day, enjoy good food and leave feeling satisfied, without having to choose between indulgence and balance. Quite the opposite.
Café Gratitude was one of those places I wanted to return to. For the food, of course, but also for its approach to cooking. And, in my case, for a pie that would soon give me another reason to keep the experience alive once I was back in France.
Love Is Served: Bringing a Taste of Los Angeles Home
As often happens after a trip, some things eventually fade. Others stay with you, sometimes quite literally on your palate. This Key Lime Pie belonged firmly in the second category.
I started looking for their cookbook and came across Love Is Served: Inspired Plant-Based Recipes from Southern California, by Café Gratitude and Seizan Dreux Ellis. I found it online and ordered it from the United States. What a joy to discover that my favourite pie had its own recipe in a book I could finally have in my own kitchen!
It is called “I Am Awakening”. A rather fitting name, really.
A little historical aside for fellow dessert lovers: traditional Key Lime Pie did not originate in California, but in the Florida Keys, off the southern coast of Florida. It is believed to have appeared in Key West in the late nineteenth century, although its exact origins remain disputed. The classic filling combines sweetened condensed milk, egg yolks and Key lime juice, all set in a biscuit crust. And unlike some versions you see today, the filling is naturally pale yellow, not bright green. Since 2006, Key Lime Pie has even been the official state pie of Florida.
I now had the recipe in my hands. All that remained was to put it to the test in France.
I took the opportunity to make it for a dinner at friends’ house and brought it along for dessert. They loved it. I was delighted: I could finally share this Californian discovery with them without having to book a flight to enjoy it again.
Like Biting into a Dream
In the summer of 2026, back in Los Angeles, I naturally returned to Café Gratitude. There was no way I was going to miss it. I ordered the Key Lime Pie and, from the very first bite, rediscovered exactly what had won me over nine years earlier.
It was like biting into a dream: incredible sweetness, remarkable finesse and a delicacy that takes nothing away from its indulgence. Even though I knew the recipe and had made it myself, tasting it again at Café Gratitude felt special.
Some dishes delight us in the moment and are then forgotten. Others follow us long after a trip, find their way into our kitchens and eventually become part of our own stories.
This Key Lime Pie has become one of those memories we can recreate at home, while still enjoying the pleasure of tasting the original.
And if I return to Café Gratitude, you already know what I will be ordering for dessert.
The Maison Chill Version
I Am Awakening: Café Gratitude’s Vegan Key Lime Pie
The Maison Chill version uses less coconut oil and agave syrup, allowing the freshness of the lime to take centre stage.
Makes one 23 cm / 9-inch pie
For the crust
100 g raw pecans
30 g date paste
1 tsp coconut oil
1 pinch of salt
A few drops of vanilla extract
1 tbsp water
For the filling
350 g ripe avocado flesh
240 ml freshly squeezed lime juice
120 ml agave syrup
160 ml coconut milk
80 g melted coconut oil
2 g agar-agar
1 pinch of salt
A few drops of vanilla extract
For the cashew cream
150 g raw cashews, soaked for 4 hours and drained
50 g cane sugar
½ tsp salt
30 g melted coconut oil
180 ml water
For the topping
Lime wedges or zest
A few pecans
Method
1. The crust. Blend the pecans, date paste, salt and vanilla. Add the coconut oil and water, then blend until the mixture holds together. Press it into the bottom and up the sides of a 23 cm / 9-inch pie dish.
2. The filling. Take a portion of the coconut milk and whisk in the agar-agar. Bring to a boil, whisking, and maintain the boil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Immediately blend with the remaining coconut milk and the other filling ingredients, adding the melted coconut oil. Pour over the crust without delay.
3. The cashew cream. Blend the drained cashews with the sugar, salt and water until smooth. Add the melted coconut oil and blend again.
4. Chill. Spread the cashew cream over the pie, then refrigerate for at least 8 hours, ideally overnight.
5. Finish and serve. Decorate with lime wedges or zest and a few pecans. Serve well chilled.
The Maison Chill tip: make the pie the day before serving to give the textures time to set and the flavours time to develop.
I’ve known Los Angeles for a long time. Long enough to know what I love about it, what irritates me, what fascinates me and what can leave me genuinely perplexed. I had already been there six times. I had dear friends there, memories that had had time to settle into their place, and that particular sense of familiarity one develops with a city one has explored extensively.
So why go back, nine years later?
The question stayed with me for a while. The last time, we had travelled as a family, but the children were still tiny: one was three years old, the other just five months. This time, they were finally going to discover Los Angeles through their own eyes, create their own memories and, above all, understand why their mother had always had such a complicated relationship with the city.
We left for a month and a half. Long enough to move beyond a simple tourist trip, develop routines, return to the same places several times, have our favourite spots and begin to recognise familiar faces. And yet, when we left, I still wasn’t entirely sure whether I missed Los Angeles itself or simply the people I love who live there.
As so often happens here, the answer was not going to be straightforward.
When we arrived, our friend Philippe March Jones was in Los Angeles for a week. A gallerist and exhibition curator in New York and Kensington, Philippe also holds an important place in the American art brut scene. He was in town for an exhibition dedicated to the artist Susan Te Kahurangi King at James Fuentes Gallery on Melrose Avenue.
Philippe is an important friend to us, and seeing him as soon as we arrived immediately gave the trip a particular tone. Los Angeles was already doing what it does so well: bringing together people, stories and worlds that, on paper, had no reason to meet in the same place.
Between Santa Monica and Venice
Before we even left, I knew one thing for certain: I wanted to be close to the ocean. Venice, or Santa Monica at worst. Not Downtown, not Hollywood, not West Hollywood.
We were on holiday, admittedly for quite a long time, but still on holiday. I was looking for light, bike rides, bare feet in the sand, long days and that famous Californian ease of living that I still find rather seductive, despite everything I can criticise about California.
We found an absolutely beautiful apartment, perfectly situated between Santa Monica and Venice, just a few steps from the huge beach. Venice Beach on one side, Santa Monica Beach on the other.
On the eleventh floor, with the ocean stretching out before us, we also had access to a whole residential complex that almost felt like a private little town: an Olympic-sized swimming pool, gym, lounge areas, café, reception, security… In the end, all that was missing was an excuse never to leave.
For the children, the Olympic-sized pool became one of the great memories of the trip. I think they could still tell you its dimensions, where they swam and how much time they spent there.
In the morning, we would go downstairs for coffee before heading out to discover another part of Los Angeles. In the evening, we would return to the beach for sunset, then head to the pool to help the children wind down. This was our anchor. The rest of the trip would involve setting off each day for a different part of the city, then coming back here.
Culver City: The Unexpected Favourite
Before settling near the ocean, we spent three days in Culver City. I already knew its history very well. Culver City is closely connected to American cinema, particularly through the former MGM empire. The Wizard of Oz, Gone with the Wind and Singin’ in the Rain are among the films associated with the history of its studios. I had known all of this for years.
What I had never done was simply stop there.
We were staying in a small Californian house with a vegetable garden and an absolutely magnificent pomegranate tree. Nothing spectacular. Just a house, a garden, quiet streets and the feeling of spending a few days in a much more everyday version of California.
And I loved it.
There was something rather amusing about sleeping in a peaceful little house in the middle of a place that had helped create the great Hollywood mythology. Cinema is everywhere, but it doesn’t need to announce itself. You can think about the studios and all the films that were made here, then watch someone watering their vegetable garden as though nothing extraordinary had ever happened. That contrast was probably what won me over.
Culver City also has something quite distinctive about it: many people who work in the film industry live there. Producers, directors, technicians and members of production teams. People who make films, often far away from red carpets and billboards.
You can live in the middle of an immense Hollywood history and, on the very same day, tend to your garden, do your shopping, buy fruit at the market and quietly make your way home.
We returned several times during our stay, particularly for the Tuesday farmers’ market. The fruit was incredible. The stalls were generous, the atmosphere local, and people came simply to do their shopping. It was a different energy from the one we instinctively associate with Los Angeles: softer, more local, more human.
Culver City hadn’t been part of my original plans. And yet, it gradually became part of my routine.
A City That Takes Everything to the Extreme
Los Angeles is a city that makes people dream. Cinema, of course. Spirituality, wellness, body culture, studios, stars, grand houses, palm trees and dreams of success.
All the clichés exist. The amusing thing is that they are often true.
You can walk past a yoga studio, cross paths with someone talking about meditation, see a gym filled with perfectly sculpted bodies, then hear about a new diet, a new method for staying young or a new way to become wealthy.
Sometimes I wonder where conviction ends and performance begins. Is everyone genuinely spiritually connected? Or is everyone mainly trying to save themselves? To avoid ageing too quickly, falling ill, failing, becoming rich, famous or admired?
Los Angeles can sometimes feel like a city where people work tirelessly to become the best possible version of themselves. Even if that means spending an extraordinary amount of time looking at themselves.
That’s probably why La La Land leaves me with such a strange feeling. I love Los Angeles, but I struggle with this perfectly choreographed vision of a city that, in reality, is much more complex.
Here, dreams exist alongside misery. Success exist alongside failure. Wellness exists alongside very visible precarity. The quest for self can seem sincere, just as it can sometimes give the impression of having become an industry.
Everything is magnified tenfold. Ego. Success. Fame. Beauty. Poverty. Ambition.
It is probably this contradiction what fascinates me as much as it annoys me.
I still don’t know exactly why I feel so attached to Los Angeles. Perhaps it’s because my friends live there. Perhaps it’s because I know the city well enough to have my own habits and favourite places. Perhaps it’s because I love its duality, its imperfect side, sometimes ruthless, sometimes absolutely beautiful.
Or perhaps simply because certain cities eventually become intertwined with fragments of our lives.
West Hollywood: Ramos’s City
Ramos, my big brother over there, loves West Hollywood. In fact, he was determined to find us somewhere to stay in the neighbourhood during our trip.
I said no, because I already knew I wanted to live close to the ocean. But I completely understand why he loves being there.
Ramos is one of those people everyone seems to know in Los Angeles, and far beyond it too. You’re not always entirely sure why, and perhaps that is precisely what makes him so charming.
He is quite a character. He has a distinctly streetwise style that suits him perfectly, along with an enormous network built over the years. He belongs to that category of people who are not necessarily in the spotlight, but know those who are, connect them with one another and play an important role behind the scenes of the entertainment world. He is rarely centre stage, but he is never very far from where things are happening.
Ramos lives in Larchmont, just a few minutes away. West Hollywood nevertheless remains one of his favourite territories. He is particularly fond of the Chateau Marmont and Soho House West Hollywood.
West Hollywood is small by Los Angeles standards, yet it concentrates an astonishing number of things: the Sunset Strip, fashion boutiques, galleries, the Design District, restaurants, hotels, bars, design destinations and a wonderfully mixed population of creatives, regulars, visitors and celebrities.
The Design District is especially interesting to me. The showrooms, galleries and furniture shops give this part of the city a genuine creative identity. You find that combination of design, fashion, architecture and lifestyle that I particularly love.
The Pacific Design Center is also a reminder that Los Angeles is not simply a city of cinema and music. It is a true city of design and architecture.
Further along, the Sunset Strip tells another story. It has welcomed generations of musicians and artists, while the hotels and restaurants in the area have long been frequented by figures from the worlds of film and music.
Celebrity seems less exceptional here than elsewhere because it has almost become part of the scenery. What I particularly enjoy is the relative calm of the neighbourhood. You can be surrounded by highly desirable places without constantly feeling as though you are inside a tourist attraction.
You walk, do your shopping, have a coffee, go out for dinner. In Los Angeles, being able to walk without having a specific destination is almost a luxury.
Melrose: Sometimes the Walls Are More Famous Than the Shops
The following day, we headed towards Melrose, one of those neighbourhoods that continues to draw people in. Shops change, restaurants appear, certain places disappear, but the street retains a very particular power of attraction.
At Paul Smith, the famous pink wall has become almost more recognisable than the shop itself. I watched young women take turns posing in front of the façade, some of them seemingly without any intention of stepping inside. The Paul Smith store, however, seemed rather removed from what they were actually looking for: chic, classic, slightly preppy fashion. The wall, meanwhile, has become a backdrop independent of the brand.
People no longer necessarily come to buy something. They come to be photographed in front of it.
That is very Los Angeles, when you think about it. Here, a shop can become a backdrop, a café a destination, a courtyard a background. The city has long known how to manufacture images. Social media has simply accelerated the process.
On Melrose Avenue, I also rediscovered HYPEACH, a shop where everything feels desirable. Then, continuing towards Sunset Boulevard, I noticed that the famous Supreme brand had opened a store in the former Tower Records location.
Two very different worlds, yet each tells its own story of a Los Angeles where fashion, culture, music and architecture often end up blending into one another.
A little further on, the new Aimé Leon Dore flagship offers another perspective on the same phenomenon. Opened on Melrose in 2026, the space combines a shop, café and garden in a setting inspired by Mediterranean homes, with a mature olive tree at the centre of the courtyard. Café Leon Dore extends the experience with its Greek-inspired atmosphere, wood panelling and espresso bar.
I loved the idea of a place that no longer truly separates fashion, coffee, architecture and lifestyle. You come to look at the clothes, have a coffee, sit in the garden and watch people go by.
In Los Angeles, a shop is never quite just a shop.
Beverly Hills: The Dream, Perfectly Maintained
Beverly Hills belongs to a different category altogether.
Here, everything seems to have been designed to ensure that the American dream never misses a beat. Residential streets are lined with trees, gardens are immaculate, houses disappear behind hedges, and Rodeo Drive presents its luxury brands in a setting that could easily become a caricature.
And yet, Beverly Hills is about more than shopping.
What interests me more is the way the city turns luxury into an everyday experience. A spectacular car parked outside a café does not necessarily attract attention. A shop that would be an event elsewhere becomes simply one shop among many.
Even extravagance eventually begins to feel normal.
I also stopped at Bloomingdale’s in Beverly Connection, where I fell for two flamboyant dresses. Perhaps that is part of a stay in Los Angeles, too: you leave with a very precise idea of what you are going to do and return with two dresses you had absolutely not planned on buying.
Westwood: The Neighbourhood That Surprised Me
Another day, we headed towards Westwood.
I had not necessarily planned to spend much time there. We went with the children for an outdoor screening of Back to the Future, and that evening made us want to look at the neighbourhood differently. Inseparable from UCLA, Westwood has a distinctive architectural character, with façades, towers and arcades that tell part of its story. In the late 1920s, the Janss family envisioned a fully planned urban development around the future university, whose campus opened its doors in 1929.
As you walk through Westwood Village, you can still read that history in its façades, towers, arcades and historic buildings. The Janss Dome, the Fox Theatre and the former Ralph’s building are reminders of a time when commercial neighbourhoods were designed with genuine architectural ambition. Several buildings in the village are also listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
There is also a university atmosphere that completely changes the make-up of the neighbourhood. Students, families, residents, film lovers and visitors move between restaurants and small shops. The Hammer Museum and the Geffen Playhouse also contribute to its identity.
But what stayed with me most was our evening.
Everyone brought their own blanket, we settled outside and watched the film beneath the Californian stars. The children received gifts.
The famous DeLorean from the film was there. For them, it was obviously extraordinary. For me, there was something wonderfully gentle about the scene: a street transformed for a few hours into a meeting place, families and children, a film known by heart across several generations, and a car that had become almost a character in its own right.
We watched Back to the Future beneath the stars. I honestly could not have asked for much more.
Venice, My Old Love
And then there is Venice. I have known it since 1996.
I know that many people associate Venice with its beach and perhaps its canals, and leave it at that. That is a shame. Venice is so much more than that.
The beach remains a spectacle in its own right. Skateboarders, artists, athletes, musicians, tourists, improbable characters, people who seem to have stepped out of a music video and others who appear to have forgotten they are in a city at all: together, they create a never-ending theatre.
But Venice is timeless.
It does not need to be tied to a particular era. It changes, evolves and welcomes new places, but it retains the freedom that has made me love it for so long.
And then there is Abbot Kinney.
It is my favourite street.
I even think it might be one of the trendiest parts of Los Angeles, with its shops, restaurants, ice-cream parlours, concept stores, photogenic façades and people strolling around as though they have absolutely nothing urgent to do.
This is where you find Fast Times, behind Buck Mason. I loved the place, even more so when I discovered a book dedicated to my friend Philippe March Jones. That small coincidence naturally made me smile.
Fast Times brings together a café, bookshop and gallery in a very pared-back space, with art books, ceramics, contemporary furniture and that distinctly Los Angeles aesthetic in which even a coffee cup seems to have been chosen with an art director in mind.
The children, meanwhile, already felt completely at home at Fast Times, as though they had decided that the place belonged to them.
Abbot Kinney is also where I rediscovered the porous relationship between fashion, interiors, culture, books, coffee and lifestyle that I love so much about Los Angeles.
It is also home to Café Gratitude, one of my favourite restaurants in the United States. I had some of the best vegan food I have ever tasted there. Their key lime pie remains a small personal obsession.
I could probably take a trip to Los Angeles solely for that pie. It would be a questionable justification, but one I would accept rather easily. A few years ago, I even ordered their cookbook from France.
The burgers at The Win~Dow also deserve a place among my culinary discoveries. We tried several locations during our stay, in Venice, Santa Monica, on Hollywood Boulevard and at The Grove, and they were delicious.
Venice is also home to Erewhon, the ultra-chic and particularly expensive grocery chain that has become a true symbol of the Californian lifestyle. You find it in several of Los Angeles’ wealthiest neighbourhoods, and its presence is almost an indicator of status. Carefully selected products, prepared food, juices and impeccable aesthetics… Here, even grocery shopping can feel like an outing. Erewhon has no real equivalent elsewhere, and that is also what makes it so distinctly Californian.
Venice is also about the canals.
I love them because they tell another story of Venice, quieter, almost intimate. Abbot Kinney’s dream was to recreate a version of the Italian city of Venice in California, complete with canals.
A slightly mad idea that eventually became one of the neighbourhood’s most recognisable landscapes. I also think of Julia Roberts, one of my favourite actresses for many years, who lived in Venice and frequented some of the places I love.
I like these kinds of details. They remind us that behind the places we discover today are also the stories of those who loved them before us.
Santa Monica, Our Neighbourhood
After Venice came Santa Monica.
This was our neighbourhood, our everyday setting, the place we returned to each evening. It was therefore impossible to tell the story of this trip without giving it its own space. Santa Monica is calmer than Venice. More family-oriented, too, and probably more touristy, but with a genuine sense of ease.
The beach, pier, bicycles, joggers, children, restaurants and shops give the neighbourhood an effortless quality that you appreciate all the more after spending several hours crossing Los Angeles. It is probably the part of the city that most closely matches the image people have of California.
Main Street became one of our favourite places to wander. I discovered Lost & Found, an incredible shop where interiors and clothing come together. Then there was 2nd STREET, a vintage and second-hand store where I found two pairs of jeans in absolutely pristine condition.
As usual, I also ended up buying spices to bring home. This time, they came from Trader Joe’s, the supermarket that has become something of a trend thanks to its unusual products and tote bags.
Malibu and Pacific Palisades
We also headed towards Malibu and then Pacific Palisades, which is slowly recovering after the fires. The scars are still visible, but life is slowly returning, as it so often does in California.
After all the familiar images of Los Angeles, there was something particularly striking about seeing this part of California at that moment: a beautiful landscape, marked by what had happened, but already looking towards what comes next.
Downtown: Another Face of Los Angeles
Of course, we had to go to Downtown.
I love its museums, its architecture, its streets, its historic buildings interwoven with more recent constructions. I love the feeling of rediscovering genuine urban density after the more spread-out neighbourhoods of the West. But Downtown is not a single neighbourhood. There is Historic Core, the Arts District, Little Tokyo, South Park, the Fashion District, Chinatown and Bunker Hill. Each area has its own atmosphere.
The children particularly enjoyed Little Tokyo. They have been dreaming of going to Tokyo for a long time, a city I already know, and one I will tell them about in another story someday. Here, they discovered this small piece of Japanese culture with a rather touching sense of curiosity, as though Los Angeles had offered them a glimpse of the journey they are already looking forward to.
The Arts District, meanwhile, always has a very particular effect on me.
Its former industrial buildings, transformed into galleries, cafés and creative spaces, its painted walls, and the way it brings creativity and everyday life together immediately remind me of New York, the city that holds my heart.
Downtown also forces you to look at what other neighbourhoods sometimes allow you to forget. The presence of people experiencing homelessness is significant, and certain areas can feel unsafe in a way that has little in common with the glamour of Beverly Hills or the laid-back atmosphere of Venice.
I cannot pretend not to see it.
That is also what troubles me when Los Angeles is reduced to a postcard. The city is capable of extraordinary beauty, but it also carries very visible fractures. Both exist at the same time.
I also had a very personal affection for The Original Pantry Café, where I used to love going for breakfast. It had the atmosphere of an old diner, where the servers seemed to be part of the walls and knew exactly what they were doing. It closed, taking with it a small part of my Los Angeles routines. But there has been talk of reopening…
Hollywood Boulevard: The Setting…
Hollywood Boulevard is, of course, unmissable.
The stars on the pavement, the Chinese Theatre, the premieres, the costumed characters, the souvenir sellers: everything you imagine is there. What I like is that Hollywood Boulevard no longer even tries to pretend.
It knows visitors come looking for cinema, and it serves them an XXL version of cinema.
During the day, it is a vast open-air theatre. In the evening, the atmosphere becomes considerably less appealing, and the miracles you might encounter there are not necessarily the kind you would tell your children about.
My children, meanwhile, had a very different experience of the Chinese Theatre. There was the gaming camp centred around YouTube and video games, organised by Fonzie. And then there were the Minions on the red carpet.
For them, Hollywood is therefore not just about stars on the pavement. It is also a gaming camp and a red carpet filled with characters they know.
I do not think they will ever have exactly the same definition of Hollywood as I do.
The Places Where Los Angeles Becomes Personal
A city eventually becomes a collection of people.
Laquelle Mari is an extraordinary and talented woman, someone who holds an important place in my heart. Her journey is, in itself, a small story of contemporary California, at the crossroads of innovation, artificial intelligence and the technologies of tomorrow.
She works primarily in the fields of artificial intelligence and quantum technology, and has been involved in developing technologies at the intersection of these two worlds. She is a co-inventor of a photonic quantum artificial intelligence technology.
In Los Angeles, she is also developing her work around innovation and the future of AI through Future of AI Studio. She is involved in thinking that extends beyond technology itself: strategy, innovation, new applications for AI, and the ways in which these technologies will transform our society.
She is also involved with the U.S. AI Council and took part in creating the Declaration of Artificial Intelligence for the Future of Humanity.
What I love about Laquelle, beyond all of this, is that she is nothing like the caricature of someone working in deep tech. She is funny, beautiful, brilliant and curious, and passionate enough to move from a conversation about the future of artificial intelligence for the benefit of humanity to something hilarious within a matter of seconds.
That is also why she matters to me.
Los Angeles is full of people who invent, produce, imagine and are already trying to build what comes next. Laquelle is one of them, but above all, she remains Laquelle: a friend, someone important to me, and one of those encounters that make a city feel much more personal.
Mario Tahi Lathan is an old friend. We lived in New York at the same time. He later chose California for its quality of life, while I remained deeply attached to New York.
He is a director, producer and editor, and a graduate of Howard University. His work has taken him across documentary, television, music and culture, with productions broadcast on PBS, TNT, BET, ESPN, CNN, E! and NBC, among others. He has directed several documentaries devoted to music and culture, including This Is The Bash, about Haitian jazz musician Jowee Omicil, and Jaimeo Brown’s Transcendence.
I particularly love the way he tells stories: with one foot in cinema, another in music, and an enduring curiosity about people and cultures.
He is one of those friends who knew another chapter of my life, my New York years, and who give Los Angeles an added depth. When you see someone again after years apart, you never reconnect only with the person themselves. You also reconnect with a version of yourself.
And then there is Gerald Clayton, my little brother.
I met him at the beginning of his career, alongside the extraordinary trumpeter Roy Hargrove, who was part of my personal life until his death. Gerald was already an exceptional pianist, and I followed his journey with great affection and admiration.
Since then, he has built a remarkable career: a Blue Note artist and a multiple Grammy Award nominee, he has worked with Diana Krall, Charles Lloyd, Dianne Reeves, John Scofield and, of course, Roy Hargrove. A pianist and composer, he also wrote the score for the documentary MLK/FBI and composed a work commissioned by LACMA.
But behind this impressive career, he remains Gerald to me, my little brother.
He was not in Los Angeles during our stay. He had invited me to one of his jam sessions at Sam First, the Tuesday Happenings. I left on the day Gerald was returning. We missed each other.
That is also what happens on trips that last a month and a half: you think you have all the time in the world, only to discover that an enormous city can still manage to make you miss someone.
Fonzie is part of this story, too.
As generous as he is intriguing, Benjamin Greenfield works at the intersection of entertainment, creativity and brands. He gave the children the opportunity to take part in workshops centred around YouTube and gaming, including a gaming camp at the Chinese Theatre. It was an exceptional experience, one that would normally be expensive and represented a genuine dream for many children.
And then there was that evening at Snoop Dogg’s home in Los Angeles, for Broadus Together. Streamed live on TikTok, the event brought together artists, creators and figures from West Coast culture. Snoop had gone all out: an open bar, goodies, food trucks serving tacos and burgers, and even his Dr Bombay ice cream. It was a generous and spectacular evening, complete with a red carpet, embodying a certain vision of American entertainment.
Thanks to Ramos and Snoop’s team, we were able to introduce the children to this world. We are not strangers to the behind-the-scenes side of entertainment, either: my husband works in television, in close contact with leading artists, while I have always interviewed international artists, singers, rappers, musicians and actors for mainstream media. The children have grown up around our projects, between concerts, exhibitions and encounters.
But attending an evening with Snoop Dogg, in Los Angeles, at his own home, was still something else entirely. For them, he is also the character from the video game Fortnite, recognisable by his signature dance. Seeing him in his own world, in the middle of such a generous celebration, felt almost surreal. And in the United States, everything seems to take on a different scale: the music, the guests, the staging, the food, the energy. An evening that would already have been extraordinary in France took on an almost unreal dimension here.
Los Angeles Without a Car
I have been travelling without a car for more than thirty years.
In Los Angeles, that can seem almost incongruous. So we mainly used public transport, except when friends drove us. It requires a little organisation, particularly when you want to travel from the ocean to Downtown, then on to Westwood or another neighbourhood.
The distances are considerable, and traffic can turn an ordinary journey into a full-scale expedition. But this way of getting around also allowed me to see another Los Angeles.
I often felt that I observed the neighbourhoods, the people and the changing scenery more closely than I would have done while crossing the city by car. I even met residents who did not always realise that some of the places we visited could be reached by public transport.
That amused me greatly. For more than thirty years, people have asked me how I manage without a car. Los Angeles simply confirmed something I already knew: it is possible, provided you accept that you cannot do everything quickly.
For a city that already forces you to contend with its distances, that may be a valuable lesson.
Los Angeles is like that. It keeps moving the scenery. You think you have figured the city out, and then it takes you somewhere else. That is what I eventually learned to accept, and perhaps even to love.
Behind its ivy-covered walls, Château Marmont retains the atmosphere of a mythical Hollywood. Its bungalows, gardens and corridors still seem to hold fragments of legendary nights.
A guesthouse with a residential feel, far removed from the standardised atmosphere and anonymity of conventional hotels. Clean lines, natural materials and an intimate atmosphere create a peaceful retreat.
Just a few streets from the ocean, The Kinney combines bold colours, graphic lines and a distinctly Californian spirit. Its rooftop pool invites you to slow down between walks around the neighbourhood. A trendy yet relaxed hotel.
The Most Memorable Food Stops
Café Gratitude
Plant-based cuisine unfolds in a bright atmosphere, with colourful plates and carefully selected ingredients. The menu, punctuated by positive affirmations, extends the restaurant’s wellness philosophy into every detail.
Café Leon Dore, Melrose
Aimé Leon Dore’s café extends the brand’s world into a Mediterranean villa-inspired setting. Olive trees, gardens and architecture create a space where fashion and lifestyle meet.
The Win~Dow, Venice
A window onto simple, precise cooking, from soft burgers to crisp fries. The place feels rooted in everyday Venice, among residents, passers-by and regular beachgoers.
Erewhon
Erewhon turns grocery shopping into an aesthetic experience, with carefully selected products and sophisticated drinks. It embodies a particular vision of Californian wellness, both luxurious and meticulously staged.
Gjelina, Venice
On Abbot Kinney, Gjelina remains an emblematic example of the kind of Californian cuisine that celebrates vegetables, fire and sharing. A lively, generous restaurant, perfectly attuned to the energy of Venice.
Sous Sous, Venice
A more discreet address, where careful cooking meets an atmosphere free from unnecessary display. Here, the details matter more than the staging.
Destroyer, Culver City
In a minimalist setting, Destroyer blurs the boundaries between café, laboratory and restaurant. Each dish explores textures, temperatures and details with almost architectural precision.
San Damián, Downtown Los Angeles
A Peruvian restaurant where colour, texture and multiple influences come together. A place that contributes to a Los Angeles where cultures meet without ever completely blending into one another.
Dan Tana’s, West Hollywood
Behind its discreet façade, time seems to have stopped somewhere between Hollywood and Italian-American dolce vita. White tablecloths, traditional service and the atmosphere of an old institution offer another side of the city.
Catch LA, West Hollywood
Catch LA belongs to the Los Angeles of evenings, terraces and lights that linger late into the night. An address as attentive to its setting as it is to what arrives on the plate.
Wandering Differently
Sunset Junction, Silver Lake
At Sunset Junction, Los Angeles takes on the air of a village, with its cafés, small shops and lively terraces. A neighbourhood to explore without a precise route, allowing the façades to guide you.
York Boulevard, Highland Park
York Boulevard offers a more local side of Los Angeles, with independent businesses, historic buildings and newer addresses. A street where you feel everyday life more strongly than the spectacle of the city.
Sawtelle Japantown
Sawtelle is another neighbourhood where Japanese culture comes through in its restaurants, grocery shops and boutiques. You move from a ramen counter to a pastry shop, from a bookshop to a design store.
The Grove
The Grove fully embraces its film-set quality: immaculate streets, a tram, fountains and shops. An almost unreal promenade, yet a fascinating reflection of the Californian dream.
The Row DTLA
In its former industrial buildings, The Row DTLA brings together brickwork, design, restaurants and independent creators. A more raw version of Downtown, where the architecture still retains the memory of what the neighbourhood once was.
Doors Worth Opening
The Broad
With its honeycomb façade, The Broad makes a sculptural statement in the heart of Downtown. Inside, contemporary art engages with bright, spectacular architecture.
TCL Chinese Theatre
On Hollywood Boulevard, the TCL Chinese Theatre retains something of the dream of cinema, with its stars’ handprints and theatrical setting. A journey into a Hollywood memory that has become almost unreal.
Maxfield, Melrose
Maxfield is unlike an ordinary shop: fashion meets art, design and collectible objects. A radical address where shopping takes on the character of a cultural visit.
Bazar, Venice
Bazar reveals itself on a quieter street in Venice. Fashion, jewellery, accessories, apothecary objects and furniture come together in an eclectic selection. A shop with a free-spirited, unexpected Californian sensibility.
Aimé Leon Dore, Melrose
At Aimé Leon Dore, the shop extends into a café and garden inspired by a Mediterranean villa. Everything is conceived as a way of life, from the clothes to the architecture.
Fast Times, Melrose
Behind Buck Mason, Fast Times brings together a café, bookshop, gallery and design objects. Art books, ceramics and contemporary furniture reveal themselves as you move through the shelves.
A Few Detours
Getty Villa, Pacific Palisades
A reconstructed Roman villa overlooking the Pacific, gardens and ancient collections: the Getty Villa seems to belong to another continent. An improbable meeting between the ancient Mediterranean and Californian light.
Palm Springs
Palm Springs is a retreat of modernist lines, palm trees and desert mountains. A city where 1950s architecture continues to engage in conversation with the landscape.
Catalina Island, Avalon
A hint of the Mediterranean, pastel-coloured houses and a harbour where boats seem to form part of the scenery. Avalon offers a surprisingly transporting island escape, just a short distance from Los Angeles.
Santa Barbara
Spanish architecture, lush gardens and that particular light that envelops the Californian coast. Santa Barbara possesses a quiet elegance, with galleries, boutiques and terraces opening onto the ocean.
Joshua Tree National Park
The desert of Joshua Tree creates an abstract landscape, sculpted by rocks and Joshua trees. The light transforms its shapes throughout the day. A detour for reconnecting with a more rugged, expansive and contemplative California.
Maison Chill Experience
Lunch with your feet in the sand at Paradise Cove
At Malibu’s Paradise Cove Beach Café, the setting is part of the meal. Settle in facing the Pacific, directly on the sand, for an unfussy lunch, then extend the moment with a walk along the beach. Stay until late afternoon, when the light softens, the colours deepen and the ocean takes centre stage.
I didn’t expect to love Stockholm quite this much in summer. I’ve travelled a lot, and some cities have fascinated me, while others have thrilled me, but Stockholm gave me something much rarer: an almost immediate sense of calm.
There is something deeply serene in the way Swedes inhabit their city. People are courteous, friendly, discreet, rarely loud or intrusive. Very little aggressive behaviour, very few everyday incivilities, and almost none of the constant noise that you eventually stop noticing in some major cities. Even when there are people everywhere, the atmosphere somehow remains remarkably gentle.
Perhaps that is what struck me most about Stockholm: this very Nordic way of simply being there, fully present, without taking up all the space.
We were staying in Södermalm, on Tantogatan, in an apartment overlooking the most pleasant part of Tantolunden. The children swam on the little beach right in front of us despite the decidedly chilly water, while around them, flowers, tall trees and warm red and brown wooden houses tucked beneath the foliage created a setting I would never have expected to find in such a populated part of Stockholm.
In the evening, people were still out enjoying the neighbourhood. There was a mini-golf championship, Scandinavian dance and music classes, squirrels, rabbits running through the grass, and ducks with their ducklings wandering among the visitors without the slightest concern. It was probably this very visible connection with nature, with its gardens, flowers and almost bucolic side, that surprised me most.
We walked an enormous amount during our stay. Our step-counting app probably had its best week of the year, but Stockholm is so easy to explore on foot that it would have been a shame to do otherwise. You move from one island to another, cross a bridge, follow the water and suddenly find yourself in a completely different setting.
And when your legs start protesting, the enormous benches that look almost like loungers are the perfect excuse to stop. Some breaks can even end with a swim, since Stockholm offers plenty of opportunities for bathing, as well as unexpected swimming spots right in the city.
From Södermalm, we made our way to Långholmen, a very green little island known for its paths, beaches and waterfront walks. I particularly loved Stora Henriksvik, a café-restaurant set in an old house surrounded by a garden, where you can have lunch or a coffee before continuing your walk.
We also had two other parts of Södermalm that we particularly enjoyed crossing before heading towards Gamla Stan: SoFo and Mariatorget. South of Folkungagatan, SoFo is packed with small fashion, design, vintage and homeware shops, cafés and galleries. Around Mariatorget and Hornsgatan, the atmosphere is slightly different, with more independent shops, second-hand stores and little places worth discovering.
I loved wandering around, stepping into shops without necessarily looking for anything, then continuing on foot towards Gamla Stan. It became a kind of ritual: Södermalm, a little shopping, then the old town.
Gamla Stan, away from the postcards
We obviously explored Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town, with its narrow streets, colourful façades and historic buildings. We crossed Stortorget, looked around the Royal Palace, then continued along Österlånggatan, Prästgatan, Trångsund and Mårten Trotzigs gränd, one of the narrowest streets in the city.
I particularly enjoyed moving away from the busiest streets and paying attention to the details of the façades and the little perspectives that appear around a corner.
There was, however, one rather unexpected presence in almost every shop window: Pippi Longstocking, or Pippi Långstrump in Swedish, the famous red-haired girl with plaits created by Astrid Lindgren. The children certainly weren’t expecting to see her absolutely everywhere and were initially rather frightened by her. Which, naturally, made us laugh.
We also visited the Nobel Prize Museum, located on Stortorget in the former Stock Exchange building. The museum tells the story of the Nobel Prizes and presents the lives, ideas and discoveries of their laureates.
At Slussen, the major junction between Södermalm and Gamla Stan, we discovered another very Stockholm scene: Nystekt Stromming, a little food truck serving herring, recognisable by the enormous fish mounted on its roof. It was clearly a genuine lunchtime stop for local Swedes, who would stop there for lunch before carrying on with their day.
We tried it and, somewhat unexpectedly, all thought it was really good, except my husband, who doesn’t particularly like fish and likes smoked fish even less. He therefore did not quite share our enthusiasm.
For a little elevation, Katarinahissen, the historic lift overlooking Slussen, offers beautiful views over Gamla Stan and the islands of Stockholm. From Riddarholmen, another lovely viewpoint, the old town looks completely different from the waterfront.
Fotografiska, the contemporary photography museum housed in the former customs building at Stadsgården, was another place I particularly wanted to visit. The exhibitions are obviously the reason to go, but I loved looking back out at the city and its landscapes from inside.
Djurgården, from the Vasa to the Rosendal greenhouses
On Djurgården, the island home to several of Stockholm’s major museums, we visited the Vasa Museum, dedicated to the spectacular 17th-century warship that spent 333 years at the bottom of the sea.
I love boats, and I’ve always been fascinated by maritime history, particularly the Viking world. The Vasa was therefore one of the museums I was most looking forward to.
The ship sank in 1628 on its maiden voyage and was raised in 1961. Its sheer size is impressive, but it was the sculptures, ornaments and extraordinary amount of preserved detail that fascinated me most.
A few minutes away, the Nordiska Museet, the museum dedicated to Nordic culture and everyday life, offers another way of discovering Sweden through its objects, traditions and ways of life.
But my real favourite on Djurgården was Rosendals Trädgård, a horticultural garden with crops, orchards and beautiful greenhouses where you can also eat and have a coffee. I loved it so much that I could easily have stayed there for the rest of the day.
And I even met a few particularly greedy regulars: pretty little tits came to peck around us. They are so accustomed to visitors that they are hardly wild anymore and seem to have worked out perfectly well that Rosendals is an excellent place to find lunch.
Fika, and especially Schweizer
Of course, we had to experience fika, the Swedish ritual of taking a break over coffee and something sweet. I had noted Café Pascal, Coffee Gallery and Fosch Artisan Pâtisserie, as well as several bakeries including Tössebageriet, Stora Bageriet, Valhallabageriet, Fabrique and Frost Bageri.
But there is one address that deserves a special mention: Schweizer, a pastry café on the very touristy Västerlånggatan in the heart of Gamla Stan.
At first glance, you could easily mistake it for a tourist trap. It sits on one of the busiest streets in the old town, and its décor is quite far removed from the pared-back aesthetic usually associated with Scandinavian coffee shops.
And yet, please, don’t walk past.
It is beautiful, warm and almost timeless, with crates overflowing with oranges and fruit that are very much part of the setting. You walk in out of curiosity and quickly understand why the place works so well.
And then there are their cinnamon buns.
I’ve eaten them in a lot of countries. Really, a lot.
They are the best I have ever tasted.
I realise that is quite a serious statement to make about a cinnamon bun, but I stand by it.
Östermalm, between design and fashion
In Östermalm, my ideal route begins at Östermalms Saluhall, the district’s magnificent historic food hall, before moving on to Svenskt Tenn, Nordiska Galleriet, Asplund and Nitty Gritty, with a coffee break on Nybrogatan and a walk towards Strandvägen.
Svenskt Tenn, the iconic Swedish interiors house, is an obvious stop for textiles, patterns, furniture and the world of Josef Frank. Nordiska Galleriet, a reference for Scandinavian and international design, offers a more contemporary selection, while Asplund continues the exploration of Swedish furniture and objects.
With Nitty Gritty, we naturally move into fashion.
Then comes a pause on Nybrogatan, followed by Strandvägen, with its magnificent façades and waterfront promenade.
Around Biblioteksgatan and Birger Jarlsgatan, there is no shortage of fashion addresses: Acne Studios, Byredo, A Day’s March, Nudie Jeans, ARKET, Totême and Filippa K, as well as maxjenny!, Maruschka De Margó and much more.
For design and objects, I loved Skultuna and especially Brandstationen, a concept store housed in a former fire station, filled with furniture, lighting, ceramics and vintage pieces.
I also found the more accessible shops particularly interesting. H&M Home felt much chicer and more considered than elsewhere, with real attention paid to materials and combinations. And Designtorget, the Swedish design and everyday-object retailer, offers a selection of designers that makes it very easy to leave with something.
In my case, it was a set of little Swedish egg cups featuring different popular Swedish characters, including the hippopotamus.
I absolutely did not need them.
Naturally, I bought them.
A little linen story
I mostly brought back from Stockholm what I always seem to end up falling for: home textiles. This time, a beautiful khaki-green pure cotton duvet cover and two decorative linen cushion covers, of course, found their way into my suitcase.
For contemporary art, Wetterling Gallery and Galleri Duerr were among the addresses I wanted to discover. And then there is Thielska Galleriet, a museum housed in a villa by the water, where the house and its surroundings are almost as much a part of the experience as the artworks themselves.
Stockholm will ultimately have left me with far more than I expected: the feeling that, for a few weeks, I had been perfectly happy somewhere.
Where to stay
Ett Hem A private house transformed into a hotel, with interiors by Ilse Crawford and a distinctly residential atmosphere. A discreet address for experiencing Stockholm differently.
Hotel Frantz Set in a historic building in Södermalm, a good base for exploring the neighbourhood on foot and easily reaching Gamla Stan.
Långholmen Hotell & Prison Museum Sleeping in a former prison is already quite an experience. On the leafy island of Långholmen, former cells have been converted into rooms, while the old prison also houses a museum dedicated to its history. The prison closed in 1975.
The best food stops
BAMBi A small Södermalm restaurant that has become a sought-after address for its inventive cooking and relaxed atmosphere. A good reason to stay in the neighbourhood for dinner.
Babette In Vasastan, a little place that appears unpretentious but draws people in for its wood-fired pizzas, sharing plates and excellent wine selection.
Solen In the new Slakthusområdet district, a contemporary restaurant centred around fire, with a cuisine that travels well beyond traditional Swedish classics. The industrial setting is part of the experience.
Triton A much more discreet address in Södermalm, with ambitious cooking and an almost home-like atmosphere. The kind of restaurant you would rather discover than simply tick off.
SNÖ In Vasastan, this family-run gelateria makes small batches of artisan ice cream, with classic flavours alongside much more unexpected combinations. A good reason to make the detour for something sweet.
A different way to wander
Vasastan A more residential Stockholm, with a lively café and restaurant scene and plenty of independent little addresses. Less immediately spectacular than Gamla Stan, but much more interesting when you want to see how the city actually lives.
Kungsholmen For walking by the water, changing pace and discovering a more local side of Stockholm. The island lets you leave the obvious routes without really leaving the city centre.
Slakthusområdet A former industrial district that has become one of Stockholm’s new creative hubs. Restaurants, bars, music and industrial architecture create a setting very different from traditional Stockholm.
Skeppsholmen A small central island where architecture, contemporary art, design and waterfront walks come together. Moderna Museet and ArkDes sit side by side.
Snösätra Away from the centre, this former industrial area has become a huge street-art and graffiti site. The works change regularly and the area offers a much rawer vision of Stockholm.
The doors worth pushing open
Moderna Museet Sweden’s major museum of modern and contemporary art on Skeppsholmen, with a collection that includes Picasso, Matisse, Dalí and many contemporary artists.
ArkDes Sweden’s national museum of architecture and design. An especially interesting stop in Stockholm for understanding how design is woven into everyday life and the city itself. Admission to the exhibitions is currently free.
Bio Rio An independent cinema in Hornstull, housed in a historic theatre and complete with its own restaurant. A place to see a film in a setting that genuinely belongs to the neighbourhood rather than a shopping complex.
JUS An independent boutique for more conceptual and avant-garde fashion, far removed from the Scandinavian high-street names we already know.
Grandpa A SoFo lifestyle address combining fashion, accessories, objects and design. More interesting to explore as a whole world than as simply another shop.
A few detours
Långholmen Prison Museum The former prison on the island tells around 250 years of penal history, until the prison closed in 1975. The visit includes access to a former cell and an insight into the conditions prisoners lived in. The contrast with Långholmen’s greenery, paths and swimming spots is striking.
Bergianska Trädgården Stockholm’s large botanical garden, set beside Brunnsviken. A perfect option for rediscovering the generous nature that I loved so much about the city.
Kastellholmen A tiny island connected to Skeppsholmen by a bridge, with the red Kastellet fortress and beautiful views across Stockholm. A short but particularly pleasant walk.
Vaxholm For a different side of the Stockholm archipelago: wooden houses, waterfronts, boats and the atmosphere of a seaside resort. An escape worth considering if you are staying for several days.
Maison Chill Experience
Take a sauna before jumping into the water
In Stockholm, a sauna can lead directly to a swim. At Hellasgården, in the Nacka nature reserve,
you can go from the sauna straight into the lake before warming up again beside the water.
A very Swedish experience combining forest, heat and swimming.
Take a ferry as a means of transport
In Stockholm, boats are not simply tourist excursions. Several ferries are part of the SL
public transport network, meaning you can use them with the same ticket as the metro or bus.
A single adult ticket costs 43 SEK and is valid for 75 minutes, allowing you to enjoy a journey
across the water for the price of an ordinary trip. Route 82, between Slussen and Djurgården,
is particularly useful for seeing Stockholm from the water without booking a sightseeing cruise.
Plan a swim in the middle of your day
One of Stockholm’s most surprising features is that you can genuinely interrupt a day of
sightseeing for a swim. Right in the city centre, there are places such as Tantobadet in
Södermalm, Långholmen, Hornsbergs strandpark and Fredhällsbadet in Kungsholmen, as well as
swimming jetties at Munkbrohamnen and Söder Mälarstrand. Here, swimming is part of everyday
life, not something reserved for days spent outside the capital.
There are few cities where freedom feels quite so tangible.
Not because it is constantly proclaimed.
But because it feels hard won.
Berlin does not try to erase its past. It lives with it. The Wall, the memorials, buildings marked by decades of history, the empty spaces left behind… everything is a reminder that freedom here was never simply given.
And yet, what strikes you most is not the city’s past.
It is the way Berliners have chosen to live alongside it.
I thought I knew Berlin.
I had visited a few years earlier and, like so many others, I had fallen for its raw energy, its monumental murals, its former industrial sites and that unmistakable feeling that the city refused to fit neatly into any category.
Then, completely unexpectedly, I found myself thinking something I could never have imagined writing after my first visit.
I had only just begun to discover it.
Berlin is elegant.
I can already picture you raising an eyebrow.
So did I.
Because, let’s be honest, when most people think of Berlin, Birkenstocks worn with socks come to mind long before elegance.
And yet…
Berlin’s elegance has nothing to do with high heels or perfectly tailored suits. It lies in the freedom to be yourself, without ever feeling the need to impress anyone.
I began to understand this within my first few hours in Mitte.
If there is one place that captures this understated elegance, it is Auguststraße.
I can spend hours there without ever looking at the time.
A gallery hidden behind a carriage entrance. A café tucked away inside a quiet courtyard. A bookshop discovered almost by accident. More often than not, all it takes is opening a door to stumble upon something unexpected.
Located in Mitte, Berlin’s historic heart, Auguststraße tells the story of the city’s transformation almost by itself. Once shaped by the division between East and West, it has become one of the most influential streets on Berlin’s contemporary art scene. Behind its discreet façades lie some of Europe’s most respected galleries. Just a few minutes away, Fotografiska devotes several floors to contemporary photography, while König Galerie has given new life to the former St. Agnes Church as one of the city’s most remarkable contemporary art spaces.
A short walk away, the Hackesche Höfe reveal another side of Mitte. Built at the beginning of the twentieth century, these eight Art Nouveau courtyards were originally designed to combine homes, workshops and shops. Today, wandering from one courtyard to the next feels like discovering a hidden village filled with cafés, independent boutiques and creative studios.
I enjoy wandering along Rosenthaler Straße just as much.
If there is one place where my husband knows he will have to be patient, this is it. I stop in front of almost every concept store. The selections are carefully curated without ever feeling intimidating. Emerging designers, beautiful stationery, interiors, independent labels… the sort of shops that make you want to redecorate your entire home when you had only set out in search of an ice cream.
It was also here that my children declared they had found the best ice cream in Berlin.
Actually… the best in the world, if their enthusiasm was anything to go by.
Three visits to Canal in just a few days.
I’d love to tell you we kept coming back to admire the Hackesche Höfe.
The truth is far less glorious.
We mostly came back for the ice cream.
And I have to admit… they may well have been right.
It was also in this neighbourhood that we wandered into the Berlin Biennale almost by accident. We thought we were simply visiting an exhibition. Instead, we ended the evening with a drink in hand at the bar inside the venue, right in the middle of an event we had never planned to attend.
A few U-Bahn stops later, another side of Berlin comes into view: Kreuzberg.
If Mitte tells the story of the city’s cultural revival, Kreuzberg reveals its freest spirit.
Bordering the Wall for decades, the neighbourhood became, from the 1970s onwards, a refuge for students, artists, musicians, activists and a thriving Turkish community. Long before diversity became a marketing slogan, it was already woven into Kreuzberg’s identity.
That is what makes Bergmannstraße and Graefestraße such a pleasure to explore.
You don’t come here to tick places off a list.
You come here to experience Berlin.
Cafés spill out onto the pavements, independent bookshops sit alongside concept stores, artisan bakeries share the street with restaurants serving flavours from every corner of the world. And before you even realise it, you’ve found yourself by the Landwehr Canal, where Berliners gather the moment the sun comes out.
In Berlin, neighbourhoods exist first and foremost for the people who live in them.
Perhaps that’s what makes them so appealing.
After the Wall came down, the city had to reinvent itself.
Berliners could have erased the traces of the past.
Instead, they chose to build with them.
I left with the feeling that Berlin still hadn’t revealed all of itself.
And perhaps that’s exactly what makes you want to return.
Stay in the Heart of Creative Berlin
Telegraphenamt
The city’s former Imperial Post Office has been transformed into one of Mitte’s finest hotels. Spectacular interiors, contemporary design and the perfect location for exploring Auguststraße, the Hackesche Höfe and Rosenthaler Straße on foot.
Château Royal
An elegant and discreet address where contemporary art meets refined interiors. A peaceful retreat just a short walk from Unter den Linden.
The Circus Hotel
Creative, welcoming and refreshingly affordable, right in the heart of Rosenthaler Platz. The perfect base for experiencing Berlin at its liveliest without compromising on comfort.
The City’s Finest Culinary Stops
Father Carpenter
Hidden away at the back of a quiet courtyard, this café has become a true Berlin institution. Outstanding speciality coffee, generous brunches and a peaceful atmosphere far removed from the city’s busiest streets.
House of Small Wonder
A light-filled café where the setting is every bit as memorable as the food. Japanese and European influences come together in a lush, green oasis.
Grill Royal
One of Berlin’s great institutions overlooking the River Spree. Refined cuisine, a beautiful terrace and a crowd that effortlessly mixes artists, gallery owners and loyal regulars.
Canal
Ice cream worth crossing the city for. Flavours change with the seasons, making every visit a little different. My children certainly thought so… they insisted on coming back three times.
Bonanza Coffee Roasters
One of Berlin’s speciality coffee pioneers. Simple, uncompromising and always buzzing with life.
Wander Differently
Auguststraße
Quite possibly Berlin’s most inspiring street. Galleries, cafés, concept stores and hidden courtyards invite you to slow down and let curiosity lead the way.
Rosenthaler Straße
The creative heart of Mitte. The kind of street where you step into a shop “just to have a look” and somehow emerge much later than planned.
Bergmannstraße
One of Kreuzberg’s most enjoyable streets, lined with independent bookshops, lively terraces and neighbourhood shops.
Graefestraße
Quieter and more local, it reveals a side of Berlin where life still unfolds at an unhurried pace.
Landwehr Canal
By the end of the day, its banks become Berlin’s outdoor living room. People simply gather here to watch the light change.
Doors Worth Opening
Fotografiska
One of Europe’s finest museums dedicated to contemporary photography, housed in a beautifully restored historic building. Don’t miss the rooftop before you leave.
König Galerie
A contemporary art gallery set inside the striking Brutalist St. Agnes Church. A place that perfectly captures Berlin’s remarkable ability to reinvent its architectural heritage.
Hackesche Höfe
Eight interconnected Art Nouveau courtyards filled with workshops, cafés, galleries and independent boutiques. One of the best places to understand the spirit of Mitte.
Do You Read Me?!
A must-visit bookshop for anyone passionate about photography, design, architecture and independent magazines.
Voo Store
One of Berlin’s most iconic concept stores, bringing together fashion, design and coffee in an atmosphere that perfectly reflects the spirit of Kreuzberg.
Worth the Detour
Tempelhofer Feld
A former airport transformed into one of Europe’s most extraordinary public parks. Berliners come here to cycle, run, picnic or simply enjoy the vast open space.
Charlottenburg
A more classical side of Berlin, where elegant avenues, royal palaces and discreet addresses reveal another chapter of the city’s history.
Pfaueninsel
A small island listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, perfect for a peaceful escape surrounded by nature.
Potsdam
Less than an hour away by train, palaces, gardens and lakes make for the perfect day trip to extend your stay.
The Maison Chill Way
Berlin is far more than its Wall, its galleries and its alternative spirit.
It’s easy to forget that it was once the capital of Prussia. Yet just twenty minutes away, Charlottenburg Palace reveals an entirely different side of the city: a magnificent Baroque residence, lavishly decorated state rooms, an outstanding porcelain collection, gardens inspired by Versailles and an elegance that feels worlds away from the Berlin most people imagine.
A few U-Bahn stops later, you’re back in a former industrial building transformed into a contemporary art gallery, or wandering through the creative streets of Kreuzberg.
And if you’re travelling with children, step inside a Kindercafé. Designed with families in mind, these cafés allow little ones to play freely while parents simply enjoy lingering over a good cup of coffee.
A simple idea, yet one that says a great deal about a city where quality of life is woven into everyday life.
It is in these contrasts that Berlin truly reveals itself.
There are cities that constantly reinvent themselves.
Every few months, a new neighbourhood becomes the place to be. Cafés change names, restaurants come and go, and last year’s must-visit addresses quietly fade into the background. You return feeling as though everything has changed.
And then there is Venice.
A city that seems to have made a different choice.
To keep telling its own story.
At a time when so many destinations compete to offer the newest experience, Venice moves at its own pace. Of course, it evolves. Locals talk about overtourism, rising living costs and younger generations leaving the historic centre. Yet somehow, its identity has remained untouched.
This was my second visit.
The first time, I left completely captivated. This time, I wanted to return to the city that had stayed with me for so long — and share it with my boys.
Their plan was surprisingly simple: eat as much gelato as possible, compare every pizza, run up and down every bridge they could find and hop on a traghetto every time they spotted a gondola.
Perhaps they had understood Venice better than any of us.
A few days before our trip, a friend told me about a holiday she’d taken with her ex-husband. Every day had become a race against the clock. One museum. Two landmarks. Three recommended restaurants. A sunset they absolutely couldn’t miss. By evening, everyone was exhausted.
I thought about that as I watched my children running from one bridge to the next.
They had no idea where we were supposed to go afterwards.
And they couldn’t have been happier.
I’m not one of those people who believe famous places should be avoided. Quite the opposite.
If Piazza San Marco attracts millions of visitors every year, it’s probably because it deserves to.
The Basilica does too.
I still remember the moment I looked up at its golden mosaics. Once again, beauty brought tears to my eyes. Some masterpieces impress you. Others catch you completely off guard. St Mark’s Basilica belongs to the kind you carry home long after the journey is over.
The Doge’s Palace deserves the same admiration. Behind its Gothic façades lies far more than a palace: it was the heart of the Venetian Republic. For more than a thousand years, La Serenissima stood among the world’s greatest maritime powers. Its merchants sailed as far as Constantinople, its fleet dominated the Mediterranean and its artists helped shape the city’s influence far beyond the lagoon.
That is also what makes Venice unlike anywhere else.
You don’t simply visit a city.
You walk through a story that still lives within its stones.
A few streets are all it takes
Beyond the Fascination
The crowds begin to disappear almost without warning.
At Campo Santa Maria Formosa, conversations slowly replace the sound of rolling suitcases. A little further on, Cannaregio settles back into its everyday rhythm. Children play in the squares, locals return home carrying their groceries, and visitors become noticeably fewer.
This is where I found the Venice I had come back for.
Behind the walls of Combo Venezia, a former monastery turned hotel, café and cultural space, students work quietly beneath the cloisters while travellers read, chat over coffee or linger with a glass of wine.
Nothing extraordinary.
That’s precisely the point.
I love places that don’t try to become attractions.
They simply exist.
Just like the city itself.
A little further on, it’s impossible to resist Libreria Acqua Alta. Books stacked inside gondolas, cats that seem to have appointed themselves guardians of the place, staircases built from old volumes… It could easily feel theatrical. Somehow, it doesn’t. The magic remains intact.
Towards the end of the day, we made our way to Squero di San Trovaso, one of the last traditional workshops where gondolas are still built and restored by hand. Just across the canal, at Cantinone già Schiavi, cicchetti line the counter while Venetians linger over a spritz, putting the world to rights.
We found a place by the water.
The boys watched the gondolas.
I watched the boys.
And it struck me that the memories I would treasure most from this journey might not be St Mark’s Basilica or the Doge’s Palace after all.
But this quiet late afternoon.
A moment when no one looked at their watch.
Perhaps that is Venice’s greatest luxury.
Not that it takes us back in time.
But that, for a few precious days, it makes time itself feel slower.
Sleeping in a Palace… or a Former Monastery
Nani Mocenigo Palace
A 16th-century palace transformed into an elegant boutique hotel. Frescoed ceilings, a peaceful inner garden, absolute tranquillity and an ideal location in Dorsoduro. A beautiful way to extend the feeling of sleeping inside Venice’s history without compromising on comfort.
Combo Venezia
More than a hotel, it’s a place where people gather. Set inside a beautifully restored monastery, Combo combines accommodation, a café, a restaurant and a rich cultural programme, all wrapped in understated contemporary design. Even if you’re not staying overnight, step inside the cloister.
Ca Maria Adele
Just a handful of rooms, refined interiors and one of the finest views of Santa Maria della Salute. An intimate address for a romantic escape.
The Most Beautiful Culinary Stops
Cantina Do Spade
One of Venice’s oldest taverns. Generous cicchetti, a lively mix of locals and visitors, and an atmosphere that proves some places never need reinventing.
Cantinone già Schiavi
The perfect stop for a spritz and a selection of cicchetti overlooking Squero di San Trovaso.
Osteria Anice Stellato
Contemporary Venetian cooking that’s subtle, elegant and beautifully executed in the Cannaregio district.
Torrefazione Cannaregio
A proper coffee break away from the busiest squares.
A Different Way to Wander
Cannaregio
The neighbourhood where Venice settles back into its everyday rhythm. Walk without a destination and simply watch the city live.
Campo Santa Maria Formosa
A graceful transition between Venice’s iconic landmarks and its quieter side.
Fondamenta della Misericordia
As evening falls, students, families and locals fill the terraces. One of the loveliest places to end the day.
Doors Worth Pushing Open
Libreria Acqua Alta
A cult bookshop where books share the space with gondolas, bathtubs and a handful of particularly self-assured cats.
Fondazione Querini Stampalia
A historic palace where contemporary art lives alongside one of Carlo Scarpa’s most beautiful gardens. Still surprisingly overlooked.
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
A spiral staircase leading to one of the finest views over Venice’s rooftops.
Worth the Detour
Murano
Far more than an island famous for glass. Several workshops welcome visitors, offering a chance to watch master glassblowers at work.
Burano
Its colourful houses may draw photographers, but the real pleasure is lingering over lunch after the crowds have left.
Torcello
Home to only a handful of residents, an extraordinary basilica and an atmosphere that feels almost suspended beyond time.
I can’t remember exactly when it started. Probably with a duvet cover. Then a second one. Then a third.
Today, I seem to own linen duvet covers in almost every color imaginable, and I’m perfectly capable of dedicating part of a trip to hunting for bed linen. I know it sounds slightly excessive. And yet, I keep doing it. I simply can’t help myself.
I love shoes. I love handbags. I love beautiful objects, well-designed lamps, and the kind of armchairs you notice the moment you walk into a room. But if I’m being honest, very few things bring me as much satisfaction as a new linen duvet cover. As I write this, I realize that sentence may be a little concerning to some people.
Of All Materials
There is something about linen that I rarely find in anything else. It manages to feel luxurious without being ostentatious, sophisticated without being formal, minimalist without feeling cold. Most importantly, it doesn’t need to be flawless to be beautiful. I think that’s what I love most about it.
Over the years, I’ve bought linen from La Redoute, from Merci in Paris, and ok recently in Malmö. In fact, I came back from Sweden with an extra suitcase whose contents were considerably less reasonable than they should have been. In my defense, Scandinavians have a remarkable talent for making me abandon all restraint when it comes to home linens and beautifully designed objects.
If linen appears so often in the world’s most beautiful hotels, Mediterranean homes, and Scandinavian interiors, it’s not because it happens to be fashionable. It’s because it creates an atmosphere instantly. A bedroom feels calmer. A sofa feels more inviting. A beautifully set table feels less formal. Few materials have that power.
Unlike many decorative purchases that lose their appeal over time, linen seems to become more interesting with age. It wrinkles, softens, and develops character. While some fabrics try to preserve their original appearance, linen often becomes more beautiful the more it is used.
Soft Power
In my home, it’s everywhere. On my bed, on the children’s beds, on cushions scattered throughout the house, and on a beautiful tablecloth that I bring out far less often than I should. In our holiday home, I even chose a linen sofa. I didn’t hesitate for a second.
After years of buying it, I started wondering whether what I loved was really linen itself. Maybe it’s the way it looks. Maybe it’s the comfort. Maybe I’m simply fascinated by things that manage to be both refined and relaxed, things that don’t strive for perfection. Or perhaps I simply love the fact that linen is incapable of being perfectly smooth. Perhaps that’s why I relate to linen more than I’d care to admit.
I could probably live without a new pair of shoes, postpone buying a handbag, or resist a decorative object. But if I come across a beautiful linen duvet cover in a color I don’t already own, I’d rather not make any promises.
The Maison Chill Guide
A Few Things Worth Knowing About Linen
What exactly is linen?
Before it becomes fabric, linen begins as a flowering plant with delicate blue blossoms. Its fibres are extracted from the stalk and transformed into yarn and fabric. France is currently the world’s leading producer of textile flax fibre.
Why do we love it so much?
Naturally breathable, temperature-regulating and durable, linen stays cool in summer and becomes softer with every wash. It is also one of the few materials whose wrinkles are part of its charm rather than a flaw.
How do you choose good-quality linen?
Look for European linen, ideally grown in France, Belgium or Lithuania. Focus on the feel rather than the weight: good linen should feel supple, alive and comfortable from the very beginning.
Where to buy it
The addresses below are the ones I personally use, browse regularly or keep bookmarked whenever I’m looking for beautiful home linens.
How to use it
Bed linen is the most obvious place to start, but linen works beautifully on a dining table, as cushion covers or on a sofa. Sometimes a single piece is enough to bring that relaxed elegance so many interiors strive for.
Good to know
If your linen feels slightly stiff when new, don’t worry. Like the best jeans or beautifully aged leather, linen improves with time and often looks even better after years of use.
I often wonder why certain places stay with us long after a trip is over.
Not necessarily the most beautiful ones.
Not the most famous.
Not even the most spectacular.
Just the places that come back to mind for no particular reason, months later.
In Barcelona, for me, that place is Honest Greens.
A healthy restaurant chain that doesn’t look like much at first glance, yet serves food that is far better than you might expect.
The first time I walked in, it was for a juice.
A quick break between two walks around the city.
A convenient address just a few minutes from our Airbnb.
Not the kind of place you circle on a map weeks before your trip.
Not the restaurant everyone talks about.
Not the one you book a month in advance.
And yet, years later, I still go back whenever I’m in Barcelona and often find myself recommending it to friends planning a trip there.
The Dish I Didn’t Expect
During one of those lunches, I ordered a cold soup.
I was expecting gazpacho.
Barcelona in summer, tomatoes everywhere—it seemed like the obvious choice.
Instead, I was served an ajo blanco.
An Andalusian recipe made with almonds, olive oil and bread, often described as the ancestor of gazpacho.
Honest Greens’ version arrives in a large white bowl.
At the centre is a silky, velvety soup.
On top: thin slices of heirloom tomatoes, wedges of white peach, black grapes, a few young shoots and a generous drizzle of olive oil.
It’s the kind of dish that immediately catches your eye.
Simple.
Colourful.
Perfectly summery.
Then comes the first spoonful.
And suddenly, everything makes sense.
The Elegance of Simplicity
We often associate great cooking with complexity.
Technique.
Layers.
Sophistication.
And yet, the dishes I remember most are rarely the most complicated ones.
This ajo blanco is a perfect example.
The creamy sweetness of almonds.
The freshness of tomatoes.
The delicate perfume of peach.
The roundness of olive oil.
Nothing feels excessive.
Nothing tries too hard.
Every ingredient simply seems to be exactly where it belongs.
And perhaps that’s what makes this dish so memorable.
Why Honest Greens Works So Well
Honest Greens perfectly understands the codes of its time.
Open kitchens.
Teams that look like a mix of young chefs and baristas.
Large wooden tables.
Plants everywhere.
Colourful plates.
Everything reflects a contemporary vision of dining: relaxed, aesthetic and product-driven.
At any given hour, you’ll find students, creatives working on laptops, local families and travellers passing through.
The place feels alive.
Energetic.
Very Barcelona, in the best possible way.
But unlike many places that rely primarily on image, the food truly delivers on the promise.
The vegetables taste like vegetables.
The juices are genuinely fresh.
The portions are generous.
And the dishes make you want to order them again.
And then again.
The design draws you in.
The food brings you back.
The Address I Always Recommend
Barcelona is full of more ambitious restaurants.
More exclusive tables.
More spectacular dining experiences.
And yet, whenever friends ask me where to have lunch between visits, Honest Greens almost always makes my list.
For the juices.
For the generous plates.
For the way it makes healthy food genuinely desirable.
And for this ajo blanco with heirloom tomatoes and peaches, which I still make at home long after returning.
I walked in for a juice.
I still go back for the soup.
The Maison Chill Version
Ajo Blanco with Heirloom Tomatoes, White Peaches and Black Grapes
The secret to a great ajo blanco lies as much in the quality of the almonds as in the quality of the sherry vinegar. Don’t compromise on either.
Serves 4
For the soup
150 g blanched almonds
80 g slightly stale country bread, crust removed
1 small garlic clove
60 ml extra virgin olive oil
2 to 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
500 ml ice-cold water
Salt
For the topping
2 to 3 heirloom tomatoes in different colours
2 ripe but firm white peaches
1 small bunch of black grapes
A few young shoots
A handful of toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
Blend the almonds, bread, garlic, sherry vinegar and ice-cold water until completely smooth. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while blending. Season with salt and chill for at least two hours.
Pour the soup into chilled bowls. Arrange the slices of heirloom tomatoes, peach wedges, halved black grapes, young shoots and toasted hazelnuts on top. Finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of sea salt and a few twists of black pepper.
Music has always been there. Not as a backdrop, but as a presence.
I can still see myself as a child, sitting beside my father, fascinated by a vinyl record spinning on an orange record player. That faint crackle before the sound arrived, that suspended moment, almost more important than the music itself. Even then, something was happening in the waiting, in the perception.
Very early on, without yet being able to put it into words, I understood that music was not a single language. It was a way of inhabiting the world.
What Comes Before
In my family, music was never an isolated practice. It was part of life itself. Women and men sang, played, passed things on: the bendir, the flute, voices answering one another. Ancient songs, almost like those of the griots, carrying history, memory and tradition.
I remember bodies in motion at weddings and baptisms, my grandfathers singing and dancing. Music was not something one listened to; it was something one lived. Looking back, that is probably where it all began.
Without yet being able to articulate it, music was becoming a way of reading the world. It was what led me to music journalism before expanding into culture, then lifestyle and fashion.
Before Naming Things
Before I even chose, I listened.
The voices of Oum Kalthoum, Farid El Atrache and Abdel Halim Hafez settled into the space with an almost architectural depth. Then came Georges Brassens and Jacques Brel, another way of expressing things, more direct, more embodied in words.
And between the two, there was the music of everyday life, the music we do not choose but that passes through us anyway: on the radio, on television, in the most ordinary places.
What Travels
Over time, my listening expanded. Certain kinds of music have always moved me immediately, almost instinctively, as though they were speaking directly to something deeper.
Chinese music, Brazilian music, Malian music, Italian music — especially that timeless Italian pop — Lebanese music, and of course Egyptian music. Different languages, different rhythms, yet the same ability to reach what is essential.
And yet many of the artists who have marked me most deeply are American, often African American, because there is an intensity there, a way of transforming experience into music, that has always resonated with me.
Thresholds
As a child, Michael Jackson was one of those certainties. First Billie Jean, then Thriller, seen live. At that moment, music moved beyond sound to become image, movement and phenomenon.
Later, other figures emerged: Prince, D’Angelo, Bilal, J Dilla… another kind of writing, more inward, more free.
Physical Expression
Music was physical, too. Hip-hop, with Grandmaster Flash, breakdancing, that way of inhabiting the body differently.
And then there were certain energies, like AC/DC and their raw intensity, or The Police and The Beach Boys, with their immediate, almost sunlit joy.
Later, at university, the night became another territory. House, garage and techno entered the picture, with DJs such as Laurent Garnier, and later Moodymann and Theo Parrish, carrying us through until the early hours of the morning.
What Remains
Jazz arrived differently, almost naturally. Miles Davis, Charlie Parker and Sarah Vaughan became an inner space, a form of balance.
And then there was Louis Armstrong. I could not tell you when I first heard him, but his voice made an immediate impression. A warmth, a humanity, a way of conveying emotion like a caress.
Neo soul followed with the same sense of inevitability. D’Angelo, Erykah Badu, Maxwell and their more organic, more inhabited sound remain among the artists that move me the most.
Over time, some of the musicians I listened to became faces, then presences. Artists I was fortunate enough to meet, spend time with and sometimes count among those close to me, such as Rachid Taha, Roy Hargrove, Renée Neuville and others. What I admire in them goes beyond talent: it is their way of inhabiting music.
Going Further
I have always searched, listened and dug deeper.
The names I mention are well known. But my listening was also shaped elsewhere: in more confidential scenes, lesser-known productions, places where sound is approached differently.
Artists such as Madlib, Floating Points, Theo Parrish, Nujabes, but also Shabaka Hutchings, Yussef Dayes, Robert Glasper and Kamaal Williams.
A more demanding kind of listening, almost a way of learning to hear differently.
What Escapes Words
Over time, I came to understand that what I was feeling was not only intuitive. Music truly acts upon us. It activates areas of the brain associated with emotion and memory, which explains why a song can instantly bring back an entire feeling. It influences heart rate, breathing and stress levels.
But beyond these mechanisms, something remains elusive. Because it does not pass through language, it reaches directly what often remains inaccessible within us. A quieter place. A deeper place. Almost a spiritual one.
I have already argued over a mug left in the sink.
At the time, it seemed perfectly reasonable. After all, how long does it take to put it in the dishwasher?
And yet, with a little distance, I’ve often wondered how something so insignificant could sometimes take up so much space in a day.
Because the mug was never really the issue.
I like homes that breathe. I like uncluttered tables, cushions neatly arranged, fresh flowers in a vase. I’m sensitive to light, materials, and the small details that make a place pleasant to live in.
And perhaps that’s precisely why certain little things sometimes have the power to irritate me more than they should.
What Stands Out
A mug left in the sink.
A jacket draped over a chair.
A few pairs of shoes in the hallway.
Nothing serious.
And yet these details sometimes have a way of capturing all of our attention.
It’s strange how quickly we become accustomed to what is going well. A welcoming home, a pleasant day, people we love, a room filled with natural light. All of it quickly fades into the background.
Then all it takes is one small thing out of place for our eyes to settle on it.
As though our minds were naturally drawn to what still needs fixing rather than to what is already worth appreciating.
The Subtle Trap of Perfection
We live in a time when everything seems open to improvement.
Our habits.
Our schedules.
Our careers.
Our homes.
The images we see every day show immaculate interiors, perfectly mastered routines and carefully curated lives.
Over time, it becomes easy to believe that somewhere there is an ideal version of everyday life.
A version in which everything is finally in its place.
And yet, in a lived-in home, there is always something left to do: something to put away, a message to answer, an appointment to schedule, a load of laundry to start.
For a long time, I thought calm existed on the other side of that list.
Eventually, I realised the list never truly ends.
A Home That Is Lived In
A home is not a showroom.
It is a place where days unfold, conversations linger, children pass through, projects accumulate and life occasionally leaves traces behind.
Some deserve to be tidied away.
Others simply deserve to be put back in their proper place in our minds.
A mug left in the sink is not always a sign of carelessness.
No more than a displaced cushion is a sign that something is wrong.
Sometimes they are simply the quiet marks of a home where real life is happening.
What Is Already There
For a long time, I believed calm came from order.
Today, I wonder if it comes more from the attention we choose to give things.
Because there will always be something to tidy, fix or improve.
We spend a great deal of time looking for what could be better.
That is probably what helps us move forward.
But the things that give a home its value are not always the things that can be corrected.
More often than not, they are already there.
When Imperfection Becomes Desirable
For decades, interior design magazines celebrated immaculate homes: perfectly aligned cushions, uncluttered surfaces and carefully curated objects. The ideal home often looked like a place where nobody actually lived.
In recent years, however, the opposite movement has emerged across interior design, hospitality and architecture. The most admired spaces are no longer necessarily the most perfect. They are often the ones that feel personal, lived-in and authentic.
A table marked by time, a bookshelf filled with books, a weathered armchair or a kitchen that appears genuinely used tell a story that no amount of styling can reproduce.
Designers sometimes refer to these spaces as lived-in interiors — homes that do not strive to be flawless, but instead reflect the lives of the people who inhabit them.
At a time when everything seems open to optimisation, this approach offers a simple reminder: character is often born from what escapes perfection.
I refused to go to Dubai for a long time. Because of its clichés, its overwhelming image, sometimes loud, and that sulphurous reputation that seemed to leave little room for nuance, quiet elegance, or anything truly delicate.
And then, after hearing it described the same way over and over again, I began to understand that the issue was perhaps not the city itself, but the way we look at it. Dubai is not only what it displays most loudly. It deserves to be noticed in its in-between spaces.
In a shaded alley in Al Fahidi, when the heat begins to soften. In an almost empty café on a weekday morning. In the unexpected silence of a beach, before the city fully wakes.
Once you stop consuming it as a spectacle, Dubai becomes deeply interesting. It is not a city you love immediately. It is a city you choose — or you don’t.
Behind the exuberance, a softness you have to earn
Dubai doesn’t need to be loved for what it shouts, but for what it whispers.
In the historic district of Al Fahidi, time slows down. Weathered walls, quiet courtyards, narrow streets that invite you to wander without purpose.
Along Dubai Creek, abras glide gently from one bank to the other. The gesture is simple, almost ordinary, and yet it tells the story of another Dubai — older, more human.
Further west, Jumeirah offers a completely different rhythm. Low buildings, open air, an almost residential atmosphere. You walk along the sea, you stop for no reason, you let the light organise the day for you.
It is a Dubai of everyday life, rarely shown, yet profoundly soothing.
Slowing down in Dubai does not mean disappearing. It requires, on the contrary, a kind of active attention.
You have to choose: what you cross through, what you ignore, what you truly look at. Dubai does not reveal itself to those seeking instant emotion. It speaks more to those willing to edit, not to consume less, but to consume with more intention.
Perhaps a city known for its noise can become unexpectedly precise, almost elegant, once you stop treating it like a catalogue. Dubai is neither intimate nor spectacular by nature. It becomes fascinating when approached as a space to inhabit — temporarily, with discernment.
This is not a destination you endure. It is a city you compose.
And in that composition — between intense light, intoxicating warmth, seamless logistics, and possible escapes — Dubai reveals something rare: the ability to let everyone decide the level of intensity they wish to live.
Where to stay, in the shade of the skyscrapers
XVA Art Hotel A charming hotel nestled inside a restored traditional house. Art, calm, an inner courtyard. Ideal for a family looking for meaning rather than spectacle.
Al Seef Heritage Hotel An elegant immersion in an older Dubai, reinterpreted with sobriety. Everything is walkable, the atmosphere peaceful, almost timeless.
Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf More spacious, wonderful for families. Greenery, canals, beach access. Comfort without ostentation.
Gourmet pauses
Orfali Bros Bistro Sincere, creative, warm cooking. A place where you feel genuinely good, even with children.
SEVA A soothing, vegetarian, almost meditative space. Perfect for slowing down and having lunch without agitation.
Wild & The Moon Simple, bright, without dogma. An obvious choice for healthy, quick, genuinely good meals.
Bait Maryam Levantine cooking that feels warm and precise, without folklore. Dishes that carry a family story.
Shopping and small indulgences
Gold & Diamond Park A group of independent jewellers, away from the Gold Souk (which is worth seeing as well). Specialised workshops focused on bespoke pieces, with real freedom of design.
Comptoir 102 A concept store blending fashion, objects and café culture. A curated selection of discreet brands and everyday pieces.
The Edit Dubai A multi-brand boutique built around a contemporary wardrobe. Small collections, far from logos and seasonal noise.
Tashkeel A space dedicated to design and local creation. Objects, books and editions born from collaborations with artists and designers from the region.
Alserkal Avenue A creative district set inside former warehouses. Galleries, bookshops and studios you can explore on foot, without a prescribed route.
The desert and more
The desert, in its contemplative version, early in the morning or at sunset. Walk, sit down, watch the landscape shift. The silence is striking, nourishing.
Crossing the Creek by abra is simple and inexpensive. Jumeirah’s beaches during the week, barefoot, without staging.
Here, nothing to achieve. Just to be there.
Day trips to neighbouring cities
And if time allows, several neighbouring cities are easily accessible. Simple escapes — for a day or a short night — offering other readings of the region.
Abu Dhabi About an hour’s drive away, Abu Dhabi feels more cultural, more institutional. Museums, contemporary architecture designed for contemplation, wide calm spaces. A structured day, quieter than Dubai.
Sharjah Even closer, Sharjah offers a different atmosphere: more rooted, more local, less staged. You sense more history and tradition, away from social noise.
Oman If you have more time, Oman becomes an obvious extension. In under an hour’s flight, the landscape changes completely: mineral mountains, long roads, sober villages. A natural continuation for those who want something more raw, more silent.
So many possible breaths, without weighing down the journey.
Dubai imposes nothing. It lets you be. And that is, perhaps, exactly what we are looking for.
Maison Chill Notes
Skip Downtown for sleeping
Downtown is impressive, but it can feel overwhelming quickly.
For a more grounded experience, stay in neighbourhoods such as Jumeirah,
Al Seef or Al Fahidi, and cross Downtown intentionally rather than by default.
Plan a mid-day return
Go out early, when the light is still soft and the city moves more quietly,
then return to your hotel before the heat and tempo rise.
This pause changes everything: you see more clearly,
accumulate less fatigue, and step out again in the late afternoon with renewed energy.